The Many Forms of Sustainable Fashion
The lifeblood of the fashion world is culture and trends and novelty. So as being ‘green, living ‘clean, eco-activism, and sustainability have surged in popularity in the last 20 years, of course it’s influence would leak into consumerism, particularly fashion. Resulting in the term “sustainable fashion,” but do we really know how to define it? If we simply search for the term, we will come across a multitude of definitions that leave us confused as to what it specifically means. Some individuals emphasize the purchase of biodegradable garments, while others emphasize the purchase of second-hand items or even repurposing items, also known as upcycling. The topic itself is very broad and complicated, and that is because it comes in different forms and can be practiced in different ways or, better yet, in a combination of ways.
Dr. Anna Brismar, the founder and owner of Green Strategy, a consultancy firm in Sweden that specializes in sustainability issues in the fashion, apparel and textile industry, claims that there are 7 forms of sustainable fashion, and for a clothing item to be considered sustainable, it must, at least, be characterized as having one of them.
ON-DEMAND AND CUSTOM MADE
On-demand manufacturing is a production model that works by producing an item of clothing only if and when a customer orders it. In this model, brands do not notify manufacturers of quantities they need at specific moments in time, but rather the moment the specific item has been ordered. Since brands are only producing stock that they have already sold, this model greatly reduces textile waste and more attention is given to the quality of the item sold. The downside is that the customer is forced to deal with longer wait times until their order is processed, manufactured, and delivered.
GREEN AND CLEAN Processes
Much of what makes sustainable fashion in fact sustainable are the production and manufacturing practices. Notable fashion designers make sure to include such practices in their own brands. Vivienne Westwood uses sustainable materials like cashmere and organic cotton, and makes sure to respect the people involved in the manufacturing and supply of materials, Stella McCartney emphasizes the implementation of circular rather than linear models of production - where garments are made to be recycled, are biodegradable, and are used as long as their value is retained so they can be returned safely into the biosphere when they are no longer fit for use.
HIGH QUALITY AND TIMELESS DESIGN
Garments made from higher quality materials last longer and, thus, are better for the environment. Fast fashion brands - brands that manufacture clothes rapidly and frequently, and sell them at low price points - do not focus on quality resulting in much of their clothes not lasting long and users end up throwing them away. Practices like these produce a lot of textile waste. It can be tempting to purchase fast fashion items especially because of the attractive price tags and the novelty of following fashion trends that come along with it. Purchasing garments that lean towards more timeless designs will help your wallet and the environment. However, taking into account an item’s lifetime value when making a purchase we help us most in the long-run, especially as fashion trends fade away. Another point worth considering here is the correlation between the quality of clothes and the working conditions of those who produce them. The lower the quality, the worse the working conditions.
FAIR AND ETHICAL
Fair and ethical production practices take into account the social impacts and ethics that a certain brand has with regards to production. Fairness and ethics are linked with the treatment and working conditions of workers, as well as the level of compensation they get for their hard work. Oftentimes, brands are not transparent with their consumers about those impacts and, instead, use ‘greenwashing’ tactics - when companies market their products as being more environmentally-sustainable than they actually are - to deceive them into believing that their practices are fair, ethical and environmentally sustainable. If demand for garments from brands that do not take into account these elements go up, then this will only encourage their deployment even further.
REPAIR, REDESIGN AND UPCYCLE
After purchasing the item and using it for some time, the consumer might notice that it is no longer in perfect condition. But instead of throwing it away and replacing it with something new, they can try to repair it, or even grasp the opportunity to use their creativity and redesign or upcycle the item into something new and fresh. By ironing on a patch, sewing up holes, or using unwanted garments as cleaning rags, we can reduce huge amounts of textile waste; which is a big contributor to sustainable fashion practices.
SELL, RENT, SWAP AND DONATE
When the clothing item is no longer desired, but is still in wearable condition, one can sell it to someone looking for second-hand items, swap with their friends or relatives, give the item as a sentimental gift, or better yet, donate to a charity of one’s choice, to prolong the item’s active life.
SECOND-HAND AND VINTAGE
According to Brook Roberts-Islam, a senior contributor at Forbes: “Second-hand shopping can unearth unique one-off pieces or sold-out items that fit perfectly into the rental model, too, making it not only a smart sustainable choice, but a revenue stream for savvy shoppers.” Second-hand shopping is affordable, unique, includes variety that accommodates so many styles, and is good for the environment. As mentioned in the Forbes article, second-hand is the answer to sustainable fashion.
GO FORTH and SHOP SMART and sustainably
Going back to Dr. Brismar, the most ideal form of sustainable fashion is the combination of all of the 7 forms above. She believes that clothes should be produced and consumed in that manner, but, in reality, it is rarely the case. Ideally, every person should find their own form (or forms) that fits with who they are, and have that form (or forms) in their minds when they purchase, handle, and retire their clothes. Not everyone likes to shop second-hand, and not everyone has the skills to create something new out of old garments. The idea is to find what works and stick with it.
References
Brismar, A. (2019). Seven forms of sustainable fashion. Green Strategy. https://www.greenstrategy.se/sustainable-fashion/seven-forms-of-sustainable-fashion/
Davies, G. (2020, November 30). How does on-demand manufacturing work for fashion brands?. Techpacker. https://techpacker.com/blog/design/fashion-on-demand-manufacturing/
Ellen Macarthur Foundation (2017). A new textiles economy: redesigning fashion’s future. https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/assets/downloads/A-New-Textiles-Economy_Full-Report_Updated_1-12-17.pdf
Motif. (2021). Moving towards a circular fashion economy. Motif. https://motif.org/news/circular-fashion-economy/
Roberts-Islam, B. (2019, August 31). Second-hand is the answer to sustainable fashion, says Oxam. Forbes. https://www.forbes.com/sites/brookerobertsislam/2019/08/31/second-hand-is-the-answer-to-sustainable-fashion-says-oxfam/?sh=57e3a73e9832
Stanton, A. (2021). What is ethical fashion?. The Good Trade. https://www.thegoodtrade.com/features/what-is-ethical-fashion
The Natural Edition (2020). 4 reasons to choose sustainable and ethical fashion. https://thenaturaledition.com/blogs/natural-style/4-reasons-to-choose-sustainable-fashion#:~:text=1.,being%20kind%20to%20the%20environment.&text=In%20choosing%20sustainable%20brands%20that,(also%20saving%20you%20money).